Monday – Friday : 08:00 – 17:30
Saturday – Sunday : Closed

1715 Dandenong Road
Oakleigh East VIC 3166

Tyres are the points of contact of your car to the road. Their ability to transfer the power generated at the engine to motion is why tyres are a crucial element for the performance of your car and its safety. As a leading tyre shop in Melbourne, we at CT Motors specialises in checking the quality of your tyres and make sure that they are good to go a further distance and have considerable service life on them. Otherwise, our tyre shop in Melbourne is fully equipped to offer top-of-the-line tyre repairs and replacements for you in Melbourne.

As your local auto repairs specialist and tyre shop in Melbourne, we strive to provide wholesome auto tyre repairs in Melbourne when you come by our auto shop, which includes the following:

  • We do a thorough check of the tyres, their tread conditions, wear levels and make a note of the service life left in them. The spare tyre is also included in the check.
  • When you come in for tyre replacement, we elevate the car, remove all old tyres and replace them with new ones.
  • During regular services, we rotate tyres between the front and rear to balance the wear evenly and wheel balancing.
  • Fit the tyres back and check the air pressure.

Effective and quick Tyre Puncture Repair and Wheel Alignment in Melbourne

One of the foremost problems with tyres is a puncture. Tyre punctures could leave you stuck on the road helplessly. Luckily, technological advances have made it possible to drive to the nearest tyre shop in Melbourne without harming your wheels. With their tubeless technology, many top-tyre brands have made it possible to get to the tyre puncture repair centre within few kilometres and not be stranded. We provide effective tyre puncture repair services at our tyre shop in Melbourne.

Tyres come in all shapes and sizes, and most cars are compatible with more than one option. This can make choosing the right tyre for your car quite confusing at times.

If you’re looking to replace or upgrade your current tyres, learning how to read tyre specifications can help to make the process a little simpler. That’s why at CT Motors, we’ve put together this simple guide.

Keep reading to learn how to find out more about tyre specifications, including your car’s ideal tyre size, and how to read what that tyre size should be.

The first port of call for reading your tyre size should be your vehicle’s owner manual. This manual should have all the specifications you require to make an informed tyre decision.

Alternatively, tyres have a code system moulded into their sidewall. This allows you to understand their technical capabilities, so you drive appropriately depending on the type of tyre you currently have. It will also help you better determine what tyre you need to replace it with should it be time to switch.

The sidewall code provides information on tyre size and construction (e.g. whether they’re radial), as well as their load-carrying capacity and speed rating. For example, the code on a common fitment for Australian cars is: 205/65R15 95H
205 indicates the normal section width of the tyre in millimetres (205mm).
65 indicates its aspect ratio, a comparison of the tyre’s section height with its section width (65 indicates the height is 65% of its width).
R indicates radial ply construction.
15 indicates the nominal diameter of the wheel rim (15 inches).
95H is a symbol indicating the maximum load capacity and speed at which the tyre can be safely operated, subject to the tyre being in sound condition, correctly fitted, and with recommended inflation pressures (95 represents a maximum load of 690kg per tyre; H represents a maximum speed of 210km/h).
In its most basic form, a wheel alignment consists of adjusting the angles of the wheels so that they are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other. The purpose of these adjustments is maximum tire life and a vehicle that tracks straight and true when driving along a straight and level road.
So you’ve had a flat tyre, what now?

The most immediate need when you have a flat tyre is to get back on the road. You will usually have to address this by removing the punctured tyre and fitting your spare, safely out of the way of any traffic.

Instructions on how to remove the punctured tyre and fitting the spare can be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual.

However, it is critically important to organise for the punctured tyre to be repaired as soon as possible. This is especially the case if your vehicle’s spare tyre is a space saver or speed limited.

What causes a flat tyre?
A flat tyre is generally caused by a puncture to a tubeless tyre’s casing, allowing air to escape and causing the tyre to deflate. Punctures are usually caused by sharp objects like small nails, screws, glass shards and other road debris. A flat tyre can also be caused through a damaged sidewall or leaking valve.

Can my tyre be repaired?
If a tyre can be repaired can only established once the tyre is stripped from the wheel. This allows for an inspection of the damage and the structural integrity of the tyre.

Although some information would indicate that a tyre can be repaired, the damaged must be assessed for the size and angle of the puncture, along with the internal inspection, to see if a repair is possible.

If a tyre suffers from a major puncture to the tread, on the tyre sidewall or the shoulder it will be deemed unrepairable. If this happens, a new tyre will be needed to replace the punctured one.

How do we repair a puncture?
The function of a puncture repair is twofold. Firstly, it seals the tyre to ensure that it will hold air. Secondly, a repair will seal the tyre’s casing to prevent moisture or contaminants from entering the tyre casing or structure which can lead to tread separation or further damage.

At CT Motors we follow the Australian Standard for puncture repairs. The tyre must be removed from the rim to perform a correct puncture repair. This allows for a complete inspection of the damage and ensures the plug used to repair the puncture bonds properly with the tyre casing to make it airtight. The repair is made from the inside out.

A puncture repair usually takes between 30 & 45 minutes to complete. The process involves removing the flat tyre from the rim, completing an inspection of the internal components of the tyre, assessing and repairing the puncture before refitting it to the rim and balancing the tyre on the wheel. It is then fitted to your vehicle and your spare placed back into storage.

If you have any questions regarding tyre repairs, please speak to one of our expert staff.

Tyre rotation:

Tire rotation means periodically changing the position of each of the tires on your vehicle. You should rotate your tires as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, or every 5,000 miles. For many of you, that will mean when you get your vehicle’s oil changed.

Regularly rotating your tires also gives you a good opportunity to visually inspect them for damage, check their air pressure, have them rebalanced if you’re noticing any vibration, and check their tread depth.

There are several reasons why tire rotation is an important element of your standard tire care. First, by routinely rotating your tires, wear is spread evenly across all four tires, and their tread life is maximized. That’s because each specific position on your vehicle requires a different give from each tire—(for example, tires on the front of a front-wheel drive vehicle will take a larger proportion of the torque and friction that’s needed for turning, accelerating and braking)—and can lead to more, or less, wear on the tire. It is especially important to rotate new tires by 5,000 miles because deep, fresh tire tread is more susceptible to uneven wear.

Secondly, even tread wear keeps the tread depth on your tires uniform, which can help keep traction and handling consistent across all four tires. This will improve cornering and braking performance and keep your vehicle safer for driving overall.

Finally, if your vehicle has all-wheel-drive, evenly worn tires lower the stresses on the drivetrain, reducing wear on expensive drive components.

The tire rotation pattern that’s best for your vehicle will depend on the type of tire you’re using, whether your vehicle is front, rear, all, or four-wheel drive, whether your tires are directional or non-directional, whether or not your tires are the same size on the front and rear of your vehicle, and whether you have a full-size spare that can be rotated through as well, unlike a temporary spare.. Let’s take a look at tire rotation patterns recommended by the standardizing body of the tire industry, The Tire and Rim Association, Inc., for all of these possibilities.
What Is a Wheel Bearing?
A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls held together by a metal ring called a race. They help wheels spin fast with as little friction as possible. They are used on all kinds of vehicles, from bicycles to aircraft and cars. On a car, a wheel bearing rides on a metal axle shaft and fits tightly inside the hub, which is a hollow chunk of metal at the center of the wheel. The hub holds the lug bolts that you use to bolt the tire onto the wheel. The wheel bearing is pressed into the hub from the back.

What Does a Bad Wheel Bearing Sound Like?
When bearings are damaged and making noise, it’s hard to diagnose because you have to drive the vehicle in order to reproduce the sound. Here are tips to help you find the source of the problem:

When the seal on the wheel bearing is broken or damaged, the noise starts out very faint and becomes louder over time. It sounds like the noise that your tires make when hitting a rumble strip on the highway, just not quite as loud, something like the sound of playing cards flapping against bicycle spokes.
While driving down the road about 40 mph, sway the car side to side slowly, shifting the weight of the vehicle from one side to the other. Do not drive crazy or cause the car to spin out, just sway it gently. Notice whether the noise gets louder or softer. If the noise is a little less if you turn right, the damaged bearing may be on the right side, or vice versa.
Note that tires that are “chopped” or “scalloped” (worn in patches) also make a rhythmic noise that increases in speed. This sounds very similar to a bad wheel bearing. Look at your tires as well if you hear this kind of noise.
What are control arms?
Control arms, sometimes called “A arms,” are the core of your front suspension system. In simple terms, control arms are the link that connects your front wheels to your car. One end connects to the wheel assembly and the other end connects to the framework of your car.

The upper control arm connects to the uppermost area of the front wheel and the lower control arm connects to the lower most area of the front wheel, with both arms then attaching to the frame of the car. If you have independent rear suspension, the design is similar.

In simple terms, control arms are the link that connects your front wheels to your car.

What are the types of control arm suspensions?
The most common types of control arm suspensions are:
Control arm type suspension
Strut type suspension
Strut type designs have a lower control arm but no upper control arm. In strut designs, the strut becomes the upper control arm and is sometimes connected directly to the spindle or the lower control arm.
Wheel balancing—also known as tire balancing—is the process of equalizing the weight of the combined tire and wheel assembly so that it spins smoothly at high speed. Balancing involves putting the wheel/tire assembly on a balancer, which centers the wheel and spins it to determine where the weights should go.

In essence, wheels and tires are never exactly the same weight all around. The wheel’s valve stem hole will usually subtract a small amount of weight from one side of the wheel. Tires will also have slight weight imbalances, whether from the joining point of the cap plies or simply from a slight deviation in the shape of the wheel. At high speeds, a tiny imbalance in weight can easily become a large imbalance in centrifugal force, causing the wheel/tire assembly to spin with a kind of “galumphing” motion. This usually translates into a vibration in the car as well as some very irregular and damaging wear on the tires.

Traditional Spin Balancing
To balance a wheel and tire assembly, we place it on a balancing machine. There are several ways to manually balance tires, but they frankly do not compare to machine-balancing in terms of either ease or precision. The wheel goes onto the balancer’s spindle through the center bore, and a metal cone is inserted to ensure the wheel is perfectly centered. The machine spins the assembly at very high speed to determine the heaviest point and then tells the operator where and how many weights to place on the opposite side to compensate.

The most important things to know about balancing are:

Balancing Is Necessary: A weight imbalance in every wheel/tire assembly is pretty much inevitable. Only once in a very blue moon do we see an assembly come out naturally, perfectly balanced.
Balance Changes Over Time: As the tire wears, the balance will slowly and dynamically change over time. Most good tire places will want to rebalance when tires are rotated, or when swapping in winter/summer tires for a second season, for example. Rebalancing at least once over the life of the tires will almost certainly extend their lifetime.
Balancing Only Fixes Balance: Balancing will not prevent vibrations from a bent wheel, out of round tire, or irregular wear. Balancing weights can’t compensate for a problem that is actually physical in nature, only for weight differences.

Road Force Balancing
Because there are those other reasons than just balance for vibrations and strange tire wear, the “Road Force” balancer was born. This style of balancer, in addition to performing a traditional spin balance, also measures both the wheel and tire to determine if there are conditions that would tend to cause a vibration on the road. Generally, most balancers do this by pressing a large roller against the tire as it spins slowly, reading out tire pressure and radial runout (i.e. deviation from perfect roundness). This can detect conditions such as belt separations and match mounting issues.

Generally, both wheels and tires will have high and low spots in terms of their runout, because perfection is impossible. If you can imagine pulling one point of a connected circle (such as the edge of a wheel) just slightly outwards, you can see that some other point of that circle must move inwards to maintain the connection, creating an egg shape. These are high and low spots for radial runout. If balanced on a traditional balancer, this assembly will not only require more weight to balance but will still probably cause a vibration.

The solution is to measure both the wheel and tire, and then move the tire around on the wheel until the high spot of the tire matches the low spot of the wheel. This process is usually called “match mounting.” Most tires today have small dots on the sidewall to indicate the point on the tire that should match to the valve stem to get a decent match mount. Road force balancers do a much more precise job of this by measuring both the wheel and tire with rollers and then directing the operator to mark the points to be matched. The resulting assembly requires less weight to balance and spins straighter.

Bang-On vs Adhesive Weights In the beginning, there were bang-on weights, lead weights of various denominations with a soft lead flange that were knocked onto the edge of the wheel with a plastic hammer. And while wheels were steel, these weights were very good. But then steel wheels became alloy wheels, and the weights broke the clear-coat on the wheels, allowing corrosion to have its way with the unprotected aluminum surface below.

The solution was Tape-A-Weights. Strips of flat adhesive-backed lead squares, each square weighing one-quarter of an ounce, the weights can be cut to size with clippers and stuck to the inside of the barrel behind the spokes. The adhesive is quite strong, but wise tire techs will still clean the surface where the weights will go to make it free of brake dust and grease. This will prevent the weights from falling off. If there is any question of the adhesive holding, a strip of duct tape to cover the weights will hold through just about anything. Racing techs use duct tape to hold weights on wheels under heat conditions that would melt the weights’ adhesive.

So that is why using bang-on weights on the face of an aluminum alloy wheel is a terrible sin. Always ask for adhesive weights when you have your alloy wheels balanced. Be suspicious of any tire place that does not use adhesive weights. Many places will use bang-on weights on the inside flange of the wheel and adhesive weights on the outboard side. (Bang-on weights are generally less expensive.) This is usually perfectly acceptable unless you have chrome wheels, since any break in the chrome can begin the flaking process and eventually be fatal.
In their simplest form, shock absorbers are hydraulic (oil) pump like devices that help to control the impact and rebound movement of your vehicle’s springs and suspension. Along with smoothening out bumps and vibrations, the key role of the shock absorber is to ensure that the vehicle’s tyres remain in contact with the road surface at all times, which ensures the safest control and braking response from your car.

What do shock absorbers do? Essentially, shock absorbers do two things. Apart from controlling the movement of springs and suspension, shock absorbers also keep your tyres in contact with the ground at all times. At rest or in motion, the bottom surface of your tyres is the only part of your vehicle in contact with the road. Any time that a tyre’s contact with the ground is broken or reduced, your ability to drive, steer and brake is severely compromised.

Despite popular belief, shock absorbers do not support the weight of a vehicle.

In more detail…
Firstly, a little bit of science. Shock absorbers work by taking the kinetic energy (movement) of your suspension and converting it to thermal energy (heat) that is then dissipated into the atmosphere through the mechanism of heat exchange.

But it’s nowhere near as complicated as it may sound.

As mentioned, shock absorbers are basically oil pumps. A piston is attached to the end of a piston rod and works against hydraulic fluid in the pressure tube. As the suspension travels up and down, the hydraulic fluid is forced through orifices (tiny holes) inside the piston. Because the orifices only allow a small amount of fluid through the piston, the piston is slowed which in turn slows down spring and suspension movement.

Shock absorbers automatically adjust to road conditions because the faster the suspension moves, the more resistance they provide.

Types of shock absorbers
Although all shock absorbers do the same job, different types of vehicles and suspension designs require different types of shock absorbers which can appear radically different.

No matter the application, all shock absorbers fit into one of three broadly defined types conventional telescopic shock absorbers, struts or spring seat shocks.

Conventional telescopic shock absorbers
This is the simplest type of shock absorber and is generally replaced rather than repaired. This type of shock absorber can be found on both front and rear suspension systems and is relatively inexpensive.

Strut type shock absorbers
Although they do the same basic job, struts replace part of the suspension system and must be more ruggedly built to cope with greater loads and forces. Although most commonly seen on the front and rear of small to medium cars, larger cars are now tending towards strut based suspension design. The strut category is further divided into sealed and repairable units. As the name suggests, sealed units are designed to be fully replaced, whilst repairable (McPherson) struts are able to be fitted with replacement strut cartridges.

Spring seat shocks
The spring seat type shows characteristics of both telescopic and strut type shock absorbers. Like struts, a spring seat shock is a suspension unit and damping device in a single unit. Unlike struts however, they are not designed to be subject to high side loads. Built using similar components to conventional shock absorbers, spring seat shocks are also sealed requiring full replacement.

CV Joints in a front-wheel drive vehicle.
All front-wheel drive cars have Constant Velocity joints or CV joints on both ends of the drive shafts (half shafts).
Inner CV joints connect the drive shafts to the transmission, while the outer CV joints connect the drive shafts to the wheels. Many rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive cars as well as trucks also have CV joints.
The CV joints are needed to transfer the torque from the transmission to the drive wheels at a constant speed, while accommodating the up-and-down motion of the suspension. In front-wheel drive cars, CV joints deliver the torque to the front wheels during turns. There are two most commonly used types of CV joints: a ball-type and a tripod-type. In front-wheel drive cars, ball-type CV joints are used on the outer side of the drive shafts (outer CV joints), while the tripod-type CV joints mostly used on the inner side (inner CV joints).

CV Joint problems
The CV joint boot looks OK.
A CV joint is packed with a special grease and sealed tight with the rubber or plastic boot, that is held in place with two clamps. A CV joint doesn’t need any maintenance and can last very long, as long as the protective CV joint boot is not damaged. It’s not uncommon to see a car with over 300,000 miles with still original CV-joints.
The most common problem with the CV joints is when the protective boot cracks or gets damaged. Once this happens, the grease comes out and moisture and dirt get in, causing the CV joint to wear faster and eventually fail due to lack of lubrication and corrosion. Usually outer CV-joint boots break first, as they have to endure more movement than the inner ones. CV boots are typically inspected during regular maintenance visits. Your mechanic will look for cracks, tears and other damage.

Signs of a damaged CV-joint boot or worn CV joint

Broken outer CV joint boot.
Grease coming out of a small crack or tear is the early sign of the CV joint boot failing. If the damage is bigger, you might see dark grease splattered on the inside of the wheel rim and around the area inside of the drive wheel like in the photo.
If a car is continued to be driven with a damaged CV joint boot, the CV joint will wear out and eventually fail. A most common symptom of a badly-worn outer CV joint is a clicking or popping noise when turning. Usually the noise gets louder when accelerating in turns. In worst cases, a badly-worn outer CV joint can even disintegrate while driving. This will make your car undriveable.
Inner CV joints failures are rare. One of the symptoms of a failed inner CV joint is shudder or side-to-side shake during acceleration. A worn-out inner CV joint may also cause clunking when shifting from Drive to Reverse.

CV-joint repairs

If a damaged CV joint boot is caught early, simply replacing the boot and repacking the CV joint with a fresh grease is all that is usually needed. This is much cheaper than replacing the whole CV joint or drive shaft. The CV joint boot replacement costs from $180 to $350. The part is usually not very expensive, but a fair amount of labor is involved to replace it. A CV joint boot is typically sold as a kit, with a fresh grease and new clamps.
If a CV joint itself is worn out, it cannot be repaired; it will have to be replaced with a new or reconditioned part. Sometimes, a CV joint does not come separately. In this case, a whole drive shaft will need to be replaced. The replacement of the drive shaft could cost from $380 to $800 in a repair shop.
If you are planning to replace the CV joint boot or a drive shaft yourself, you will need a strong torque wrench (or a breaker bar) and the right size socket to break loose the main CV joint lock-nut or hub nut(in the photo) because it’s very tight. Also, be prepared that the lower ball joint will have to come out, and it could be quite difficult to do without special tools. The hub nut will also have to be re-torqued to the specified torque after the repair is completed. Check the repair manual for instructions and torque specifications.

The expertise team at CT Motors attends to your immediate tyre puncture repairs using state-of-the-art technology and tools. We also have the latest laser tech systems to offer the most accurate and effective wheel alignment services in Melbourne.

Unaligned wheels are the major reason for the uneven wear of tyres. At CT Motors, we are adept at recognising this and provide accurate tech-based wheel alignment in Melbourne for a comfortable and smooth driving experience.

It is our mission to offer authentic tyre repair services in our tyre shop in Melbourne. Our main focus is You. We strive to listen to your requirements and guide you to get the best possible tyre repairs in Melbourne, tyre puncture repairs and wheel alignment services in Melbourne.

CT Motors is your full-service car repairs specialist and we offer RWC and pre-sales inspection in addition to our logbook servicing and other auto shop services.

Give CT Motors a try for fulfilling and high-quality tyre repairs in Melbourne. You’ll not be disappointed.

Book a no-obligation free inspection and assessment today!


How much does it cost to fix a tyre?

Having your tyres periodically inspected for tread wears and replacing them when necessary is vital to keep yourself and your family safe in the car. The cost to fix a tyre varies a lot from $85 to $850. It depends on the type of tyres you choose, the size of the tyres needed for your car and the brand of tyres you choose.

How long does alignment last?

Wheel alignment is dynamic and it changes due to driving patterns, distances and the quality of driving. Wheel alignment is most suggested to have every couple of years. However, if you are planning for a long road trip for extensive travel with your car, it is good to get a wheel alignment done by a professional tyre shop in Melbourne.

Book an obligation free test today

Monday – Friday : 08:00 – 17:30
Saturday – Sunday : Closed

1715 Dandenong Road
Oakleigh East VIC 3166